7 7 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING, 

Practically Illustrated, 

— — AND 

Mathematically Demonstrated. 



©HE 



Franco-Prussian Mode 

"METHOD," 

Patented Tune ©, 1882. 
FOURTH INSTRUCTIVE EDITION, 



■BY- 



H. AYERS JACKSON, 

INVENTOR AND PATENTEE, 

202 State Street, Rooms 5 and 6. 

Chicago, III. 






1 



Entered according 1 to Act of Congress in the year 1884 by H. Ayers Jackson. 
All rig-hts reserved. 

TABLE OF MEASURES, 

The annexed table shows the average proportional measures 
for regular formed persons, including the chest and width of 
back measures (both combined) ; the average armseye for a given 
bust measure, and the proper distance between the top waist and 
the under-arm lines. No rule can be relied on to determine the 
chest or width of back measures separately, except by carefully 
measuring from arm to arm with the measuring tape, as all forms 
differ in that respect. The chest and width of back measures 
constitute a trifle more than two-thirds of the bust measure. 
The armseye diameter a trifle less than one-third. The three 
measures combined equal the exact bust measure. 

I will here state that columns 4 and 5 represent only a medium 
high, and a medium low shoulder, an extra high shoulder will 
require from one-fourth to one-half inch less distance than is 
given in column 4, and an extra sloping shoulder will require 
from one-fourth to one-half inch more dista?ice than is given in 
column 5. The length of the shoulder measure, if correctly 
taken, will be a sufficient guide in this respect when parties 
properly understand our " Method," also in determining the 
amount of " stoop " in bent forms, enabling the cutter to give the 
proper shape to any pattern, whatever the form, "except positive 
deformities." 



No. 1. 



Size of Bust 
Measure. 



23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 



Inches. 



No. 2. 



The Chest and 

width of Back 

Measure both 

combined. 



17 Inches. 

18 

19 " 

19/ 2 " 

20 

20tf " 

21 

21K " 

22 " 
22/2 " 

23 " 
24 

24/ 2 " 
25 " 

26 

26/ 2 " 
27 

28 

2834 " 

29 

29/ 2 " 

30 

30i/ 2 ". 

31 

32 

32/ 2 " 



No. 3. 



Average Arms- 
eye Measure. 



10 Inches. 
IOK2 " 
11 
11/2 " 

11% " 

12 

1234 " 

L2/ 2 " 

13 

13/2 " 

14 

14/ 2 « 

15 

15/2 " 

16 

I6/2 " 

17 

1734 " 

17/2 " 

17% " 

18 

1834 " 

18^ " 

18% " 

19 

19 to 20 in. 



No. 



Medium 

High 
Shoulder. 



1 p. 03 

£ W a +* rS ■* 

>$ 2> « g 



No. 5. 

Medium 

Low 
Shoulder. 



534 to 534 Inches. 



5*/ 2 . 
5%. 
6 . 

6 . 

6%. 

6%. 
6Y 2 . 
6%. 

7 . 
734 
734 . 
7%. 

8 . 
834- 
8/2 
8%. 
87s. 
8%. 



..to... 
.to.... 
.to.... 
.to.... 
.to...- 
.to.... 
.to.... 
.to. .. 
.to.... 
.to.... 
.to.... 
.to. .. 
.to.... 
.to.... 
.to.... 
.to.... 
.to.... 
.to.... 
.to... 

.to 

.to.. • 
.to.... 
.to.... 
.to.... 
.to.... 



.5% 
.6 

• 634 
.634 
.6/2 
.6% 

• 6% 
.7 
.734 
.7^/2 

& 

.834 
.8/2 
.8% 
.9 
9 
.9 



Note.— After the measures are taken and before the customer leaves compare them with the 
table of average measures, and should they vary much make sure they are right before they leave. 




^YoM 



TO MEASURE AND DRAFT 

OUR GRADUATED HIP RULE. 



No. 1 to No. as al 
inches variation froi: 
forms Should the 

in the same way. I 



acli No. I inch fo 
J~N.,>. ::. -I and ■> 



Qress-/V\akers of America. 

IN these days of progress, as the steam engine has superseded 
fit the old six-horse stage coach, the electric light is taking the 
JL place of the old oil lamp, the lightnings of heaven become 

the passive servant of man to carry intelligence, so correspond- 
ing progress has been made in other arts, among which is the 
application of geometry as embodied in the Franco-Prussian 
Mode, which is becoming the slogan that will break in pieces 
and trample in the dust the old rusty ideas of cutting and fitting 
ladies' costumes, the scientific application of strictly mathematical 
principles can be found in no other system of dress cutting. The 
many charts claiming to be French Tailor Systems, and im- 
provements on S. T. Taylor System, are frauds upon their face. 
Any form of .diagram, on pasteboard with perforated outlines, 
are simply charts and not systems. 

After nearly four years' contest in the Patent Office, we hold 
a clean patent covering the vital principles embodied in our sys- 
tem, and all persons are warned against tresspass upon said 
principles under penalties. 

This system wherever tested comes out ahead. It will fit 
forms that cannot be fitted by any other system. The Hip Rule 
is complete, and the Sleeve the only practical one ever invented. 
Costumes cut by this system assume a more easy and graceful 
appearance, one-half of your time is saved as no changes are 
necessary, your anxiety becomes a pleasure, as you guess at 
nothing. No dress-maker can afford to be without it. 

The Franco-Prussian Mode is sold as follows: 

Single (including Hip Rale and Sleeve), with full instructions $20 00 

" without " " 10 00 

Three Modes at one time including Instruction Book 21 00 

Six " " " " " " , 40 00 

Twelve " " " " " " 75 00 

Price of our Limited Geometrical System with Sleeve (chart 
form) : 

Single with Sleeve and printed instructions $ 5 00 

Single both Sleeve and Hip Kule, fall system instructions 10 00 

One dozen including Sleeve and printed instructions 20 00 

Agencies for special territory on advantageous terms. 

Persons sending orders from a distance should always enclose 
a Post-office order for the amount wanted; but if sent C. O. D., 
at least $i.oo should be enclosed with the order to ensure the 
express charges. Address all orders to 

H. AYERS JACKSON, 

Inventor and Patentee, 
Rooms 5 and 6. 202 STATE STREET, CHICAGO, ILL. 



THE SCIENCE OF PRACTICAL DRESS CUTTING. 

By H. AYEES JACKSON, Chicago, III. 

This is a world of wonders, object after object meeting our 
vision that to our understanding at first seems unfathomable. 
Every thing seems to be surrounded with mystery. But the 
restless, inquisitive mind of man is not content to remain in dark- 
ness, he rallies all his energies to unravel these mysteries; he 
commences theorizing, weighing the probabilities surrounding 
the subject, investigating all the circumstances in order to gather 
one great truth, which when proven, becomes the initial point in 
unravelling other great truths, until the entire subject is analyzed 
and laid open to his understanding, and the problem stands out 
in itself as one great truth, undeniable, unquestioned. In this 
manner theory and science go hand in hand, to analyze and bring 
to light the hidden mysteries surrounding us. In this manner 
all solid truths are demonstrated. Scientific analysis is the great 
motive power that lays a solid foundation for progress in all the 
arts and sciences of the present or future generations. A founda- 
tion of truths practically demonstrated, is the only true base on 
which to stand where positive results are required. To rely 
upon theory under such circumstances would be sheer madness. 
To draw a true line on the object, is always necessary to make 
a successful shot. 

From time immemorial, the art of dressing the human form 
has occupied the minds of all classes, from the lowest serf, to 
those occupying the highest stations of life, and many of the best 
minds have occupied their time in devising methods, means and 
ways to adorn the architecture of the human form in such a man- 
ner that the artistic beanty of the outline should appear to the 
greatest advantage. In order to excel at the present day in the 
art of dress-making requires the highest order of architectural 
mechanism, together with a high order of artistic discrimination 
as to tone, color, outline and complexion of the person of the 
wearer, always bearing in mind " that it is not what one wears, 
but how worn," that brings out the highest order of artistic ex- 
cellence, or its reverse. With these few remarks, I will proceed 
to state that of the many ways devised to cut garments, one great 

(3) 



truth has been too much neglected, or has been found too com- 
plex to handle scientifically. The human form is a truncated 
cone, in mathematics or mechanics, and must be handled as such. 
Should we desire to fit all its peculiar outlines, we must resort to 
solid mathematical and mechanical principles in order to succeed. 
Our tools should be the best that can be devised in order to bring 
every outline in its proper place to avoid tension. Each outline 
of a pattern should conform to the shape of the cone it is intended 
to fit. The cone of the human form is a series of constant and 
incessant changes, no two being found alike; similarities fre- 
quently occur as in the facial outline, but we have never found 
any two measuring alike. Hence the tools required to meet 
this difficulty should be susceptible of meeting those changes in 
accordance with the measures, which should be scientifically 
taken over each variation of the form to be fitted. In order for 
any cutter, whether for ladies' or gentlemen's wear, to excel, it is 
necessary to closely observe the peculiarities of the form, then to 
measure it carefully over every protuberance and depression, 
taking into consideration any flatness or extra fullness, at any 
point. Then carefully noting down each and every measure as 
a whole and from each point requiring seams; then with the 
most scientific tools obtainable lay out the draft on paper, cloth 
being entirely too flexible to rely on. Obtain the exact outline 
of every seam, and the waist line, exactly as the measure calls 
for; when cutting the pattern on cloth the best results are 
obtained by cutting the pattern straight on the goods, that being 
the strongest and firmest direction of the cloth, there is much 
less liability of the garment becoming unshapely in a short time 
on wearing. When cut on the bias as many of the French 
modistes are in the habit of doing, you may obtain an easy, ele- 
gant fitting costume when first worn, but our experience has 
been that in a short time they are drawn out of shape, and are 
soon thrown aside. Americans as a class are utilitarian, they de- 
sire a garment so constructed that it will wear out if necessary 
without becoming unshapely. So as a first principle, cut all 
patterns straight on the cloth, the fitting can be made fully equal 
to bias cutting, and much superior in the long run. All very 
soft woolen goods need great care in properly sustaining each 
seam, and especially the armseye and shoulder seams, before 

(4) 



attempting to baste them up; a good plan is to use a strong 
thread at first by running it around the shoulder and armseye in 
such a manner that it will prevent its stretching larger than the 
cut pattern, which should be used as a guide, and when so sus- 
tained baste around a linen tape or other firm material to be sewed 
to or over the seams in such manner as to prevent any danger of 
the goods stretching. Many garments are ruined for want of 
this very necessary precaution before basting. When basting 
commence by first securing the outlines at bottom of waist, and 
then baste both ways, running any surplus up into the armseye 
and down to the bottom. In this way you hold the positive 
square of the goods when cut by our method. Then use great care 
in passing the needle evenly through the outlines on both sides 
of the goods same as the pattern indicated, and never allow any 
gathering or unevenness in any seam about the garment. 



Franco-Prussian Mode Measures. 



Dress Makers should bear in mind that the Franco-Prussian 
Mode is a Draft from Actual Measure, for Cutting Dresses, 
Cloaks, Basques, etc.; also Gents' Coats, Vests, Shirts, etc.: 
hence the necessity of always getting correct and proper meas- 
ures ; then place them on paper to avoid mistakes, placing the 
name of the party at the head of the measures, to avoid substi- 
tuting the measures of wrong party. 

Never Measure any Person until you see they are dressed as 
they desire to be when wearing the garment to be fitted. In 
case artificial fullness is wanted, supply it. 

1. The Bust Measure should be close. Stand fronting the 
party being measured; carry the tape straight across the 
Back, just over the shoulder blades, then bring it around 
over the fullest part of the Bust; now hold with thumb and 
finger, and turn the party around and see they stand in a 
perfectly natural position, the arms dropping at the sides, 
etc., and that your tape is properly placed; then, without 
drawing too tight, ascertain your measure. 

(5) 



2. Waist.— Measure tight around the smallest part of the 

Waist. 

3. Chest. — Measure close from arm to arm, from where the arm 
joins the shoulder, and across top of chest. (Determine 
where the arm joins the body by raising and lowering the 
arm.) 

4. Width of Back. — Measure close from arm to arm, above 

the shoulder blade. 

5. Length of Back.— Place your tape on the top bone of the 

spinal column, then measure down as low as the form will 
admit. 

6. Under Arm..— Place the end of the tape under the arm, 

" easy," then carry it down to bottom of belt. 

JggT 3 This is an important measure, and too much care cannot 
be taken in having it just right, and you should always see that 
the top of the tape comes just to the muscle under the arm as it 
joins the body, never too close up, or too slack, making it too long 
or too short. 

7. Armseye. — Carry the tape under the arm and over the 

point of shoulder close, being careful to not measure surplus 
goods. 

8. Shoulder. — Place the end of tape as high on the neck as you 

desire to carry the dress, then down to point of shoulder. 

9. Neck and Front.— Place the end of tape on top bone of 

Spinal Column, then carry it to center of Bust, close but 
easy — then down front to bottom of belt, noting at same 
time the proper height for the dart. 

10. Hips. — Measure close around the hips, then allow three 
inches for drapery. Then measure from the bottom of the 
belt to the most prominent Hip enlargement, and note the 
distance whether 3, 4, 5, or 6 inches below the belt. 



(6) 



Rules to Draft by the Franco-Prussian Mode as Ex- 
plained by Cuts in Back of Book. 



First. Draw a line across top of Paper (marked i, 2 and 3) 
lor top line. 

Second. Draw Bust Line 1^ inch from left hand edge of 
Paper 1 to 4. 

Third. Take the Scale indicating the Bust measure wanted, 
and measure its length on top line from 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3, 
marking each point, then on bottom of Paper from 4 to 5 and 
from 5 to 6, then draw straight lines 2 to 5 for center line, and 
from 3 to 6 for back line. 

Fourth. Find the Armseye measure in third column of 
Table of Average Measures in front of book, and use the figures 
to the right in fourth column for an average high shoulder, and 
in fifth column for an average low shoulder, then measure that 
distance on Bust-line 1 to 7, and on Back-line 3 to 8, then find 
under-arm measure on tape, then measure that distance on Bust- 
( line 7 to 4, and on Back-line 8 to 6, then draw under-arm line 
7 to 8, and the bottom Waist-line 4 to 6. 

Fifth, Chest and %vidth of Back. Now find one-half of the 
chest measure by doubling the tape, and then measure it on 
tender-arm line 7 to 9, then measure one-half of the width of 
back measure on same line 8 to 10, always marking plain where 
all measures terminate. 

Sixth. Now take the scale and measure six numbers from 
top line down on bust line and mark at 1 1 for front of Neck, 
then six numbers to right of 1 on top line and mark at 12 for 
neck and shoulder guide, then three numbers down from 2 on 
center line and mark at 13 for shoulder line, then four numbers 
to left of 3 on top line and mark at 14 for width of back and back 
shoulder point, then three numbers straight up from 9 and mark 
at t 7 for front of armseye guide, then three numbers straight up 
from 10 and mark at T5for back armseye guide, then seven num- 
bers straight up from 15 and mark at 16 for point of back shoul- 
der guide and draw line 15 to 16 and across end of scale. 



Seventh. Shoulder Lines. Draw lines from 12 to 13, and 
14 to 16 for front and back shoulder lines, then with tape meas- 
ure for front shoulder 12 to 18 (5^ inches), then measure for 
back shoulder 14 to 16 (6 inches). 

Eighth. Neck and Armseye. Take the Mode in left hand 
and place the front neck -point at 1 1 and carry the neck points 
back to 12 and draw the neck curve. Then take the Mode in 
right hand and place the front armseye form at 18, and so it 
shall at the same time pass y inch to right of 17, and the bottom 
armseye form crossing the under-arm line at A, then draw the 
front of armseye curve, then turn the mode over, face down and 
with the same curve, draw back of armseye 16 to B, A and B 
being 3/^ inch from 19, which is the center between 9 and to, 
then measure the armseye, and if more than y 2 of an inch too 
large, or y inch too small, raise or lower the under-arm and 
bottom Waist-lines y, inchjor every inch desired change. 

Ninth. Length, Point, Etc. Place the end of tape at 3, 
measure to 14 (1% inches), which place at 12 and mark length of 
point measure (19^) at 22, and the height of dart measure at 23. 
Now place end of tape at the under-arm line and measure to 23 
(4 inches), slide the tape to the center line, resting the end ?>y 
inch above the line at 19, then mark the 4 at 24 (the distance 
being y^ inch less from 24 than' from 23, to the under-arm ' 
line), then draw 23 to 24 for top dart line, then scale six 
numbers to right of Bust line and mark 27, then scale six 
numbers to right of 27 and mark 28 for top of dart guides, then 
scale three numbers to right of 4 on bottom Waist-line and mark 
at 29, then three more numbers to 30, one number to 31, and four 
numbers to 32 ; now place the dart form of " Mode " so the cen- 
ter of the red space between the words u Form '.' and " Dart 
Point" shall rest at 27, draw to 29, and from 28 to 31, then 
turn the dart form over and draw curves 27 to 30, and 28 to 32. 

Tenth. Back. Place the end of tape at 3, mark three inches 
down for back slope at 20, and length of back measure at 21, 
measure in from 6, 7/q inch at 21 ; draw 20 to 21, and 21 to 25 for 
bottom of back; scale three numbers 21 to 25 for width of back. 
Place the edge of scale at 15 and draw line 26, y inch above 15, 
the point where the side back seam enters the armseye. Place 

(8) 



the front neck point of Mode at 26 and draw 26 to 25; slide the 
back margin two inches from the neck point to 26 and draw to 
33, y^ inch from 2=5. Turn the dart form face down, the notch 
at the lower end resting on back slope at C and D, passing inside 
of line 20 to 21, 1^ inch at E, which completes the back. 

Eleventh. Side-Back. Place the end of tape at 5, carry to 
the right hand, place the thumb nail of right hand on the tape 
and hold firmly on the line at 33, then double the tape and mark 
at 34 so to evenly divide the goods between the side-back and 
under-arm patterns, then place the end of the tape on under-arm 
line at B and carry to F, then double and mark at G, then draw 
line V2 inch to left of G to 34 as shown, with straight rule. 

Twelfth. Under- Arm Pattei'ns. Mark short lines H and I, 
\y^ inches below under-arm line; then measure to the left of 33, 
34 and 5, as shown at K, L and M, 3/% inch each, and ^ inch 26 
to J in armseye, then place the front Neck Point of Mode at J 
and draw to N; place the black outline of Bust Form at O, and 
draw to K; then draw with straight rule I to L, place the top of 
Bust Form at P and draw to M, place the dart form at H and 
draw very slight curve to 5, not exceeding y% inch; place at I and 
draw to 34, curve not to exceed y^ inch at R ; place the end of 
tape at 26, and place the finger nail on the tape on bottom of 
back line at 25, then move the end from 26 at J, then move the 
measure from 25 to S; place the rule at 5, and draw SS to S; 
place the end of tape at I, with finger on tape at SS, swing the 
tape SS to T; then draw 5 to T, and you have your side back 
measure into the back, and the under-arm pattern into the side- 
back. 

Thirteenth. Bust. Now measure 1/^ inch to left of 22, $/% 
inch to left of U, and 1 inch to left of V on Bust line; now place 
the top of Bust form at 11, and draw to W; place the dart point 
face down at W, and in position to intercept X and Y as shown. 

Fourteenth. Waist. Take one-half of the waist measure 
on the tape (12 J^ inches) in the right hand, end to the left, then 
measure out 21 to 25, S to SS, T to 5, M to back of dart, between 
the darts and front of the darts, and if not the exact measure, 
make the change where it will improve the contour of the pat- 
tern ; always get the exact waist size before attempting to cut it 

(9) 



out, thereby saving all future trouble; carelessness here will give 
you trouble, and will never pay. 

Fifteeitth. To Cut Out. First cut through on straight line 
5 to 2; second M to Y; third Y to 11, thence to 12, thence to 18 
and around to A B; then 21 to 3, to 14, to 16; thence to 26 and 
B; then the side back line 25 to 26, then 34 to G. Leave y% to 
% inch of paper to steady the tracer on the lines 21 to 3, 14 to 16, 
Y to 11, 12 to 18 and M to Y; cut 25 to 26 so as to leave only the 
pencil line on the back pattern ; cut the armseye and neck in same 
manner; cut off the back 21 to 25, then place 26 at J and measure 
the back and side back carefully into each other on line J, N, O, 
to K and S, and mark the back into the side back at S ; then 
place the line I, exactly together, carrying T to SS, then hold 
carefully and mark straight from the length of back mark at S, 
to 5, making the three patterns of exact length. 

Sixteenth. To trace the outlines, use the needle pointed 
tracer which can always be found at our office. Then run the 
tracer carefully and smoothly on the following lines: 18 to 12, 
1 1 to Y, both darts, B to 24, P and M, G to I, L and T, G, R, 
to SS, J, N, O, to K and S, 26 to 25, 14 to 16, 3 to C, E, D and 
21. Then outline the bottom of waist carefully at Y, M, 5, T, 
SS, S, 25 and 21. Then hold these outlines exactly together 
when basting. 

Seventeenth. To Baste. Place each outline at bottom of 
waist exactly together and then baste carefully, strong and evenly 
both ways from the waist line, allowing no fullness or uneven- 
ness on any line, and you will find satisfactory results. Every 
dress maker should bear in mind that poor or careless basting 
will always spoil the effect of the nicest fitted garment, and 
should be vigilantly guarded against. 



(10) 



DRESS-MAKERS BEWARE. 



Infringement on the Franco-Prussian Mode of Dress-cutting 
is extensively practiced. The system bearing the mark, " Mrs. 
F. J. Kellogg's French Tailor System, Flint, Mich., Pat'd Dec. 
4th, '79?" was stolen bodily from the "Mode" (but is a poor coun- 
terfeit). No such patent ever issued ; and to prevent your being im- 
j)osed upon, will say the Franco-Prussian Mode of Dress-cutting 
is the only actual measure system on earth, with only one mathe- 
matically graduated scale for each sized person measured, and by 
a geometrical Eccentric Curve, adapting itself to all forms, thus 
insuring a positive Jit without refitting, which Scales and Curves 
both separately and combined, with accompanying measure 
directions, were duly copyrighted and a patent applied for in 
1878-79. jggT"Remember! no other system has Scales and Curves 
as above, either separate or combined, without infringing on my 
invention, and I shall prosecute all parties found either selling or 
using any system embodying infringements on the Franco-Prus- 
sian Mode, which is the only system ever invented mathemati- 
cally complete in itself, combining the only reliable Hip Rule 
and sleeve ever invented. 

All orders, address 

H. A. JACKSON, Inventor, 

202 STATE STREET, 

ROOMS 5 AND 6, 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



(11) 



The Inventor and Patentee of the " Franco-Prussian Mode," together 
with the " Method of and the means for Drafting and Cutting Clothing," 
patented June 6, 1882, which is used therewith, invites intelligent and 
scientific criticisms as to their true merits, and thinks he does not over- 
state facts when he says no other system for cutting clothing has a 
"Method " sufficiently unique to admit of being patented; or that will 
stand a scientific mathematical or mechanical test without being found 
entirely deficient in many particulars. Our "Method " deals with facts, 
without theory, literally photographing mathematically, the form with 
the aid of proper measures and the scientific instruments invented for 
the purpose, and which are used in making the draft. This "Method" 
was patented under the express showing that it was "the only Method 
ever invented whereby the correctness of one measure could be proven 
by the other measurements, as applied in the draft," and the "only 
system susceptible of fitting all forms without change." For artistic 
excellence, simplicity, time and material saving it is 100 years in 
advance of all other systems. Instructions by 

H. AYERS JACKSON, 

The Inventor and Patentee, 

202 State St., Booms 4, 5 and 6, 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



H. AYERS JACKSON'S 



SCIENTIFICALLY 

GRADUATED WAIST, HIP RULE AND 

SLEEVE 



e 



£= 



■;■■•. 



METHODS v. 



'-& 



For Ladies', Gentlemen's and Children's Tailoring, 

Mathematically Demonstrated and 

Practically Illustrated. 



Entered according- to Act of Congress in the year 1SS4 by H. Avers Jackson. 
All rig-hts reserved. 



H. AYERS JACKSON'S 

Scientifically Graduated Hip Rule and Sleeve 

Method, Mathematically Demonstrated 

and Practically Illustrated. 



introductory. 



In placing this invaluable system for adjusting the Hip 
Enlargements below the Waist Line before a world-wide audi- 
ence of artists, combining the highest order of artistic excellence, 
will here remark that the many variations of the hip formation 
make it very necessary, when measuring, to notice particularly 
whether the hip-bone is high and shelving, medium or low, that 
is to say, notice whether the largest circumferential measure is 3, 
4, 5 or 6 inches below the waist line, then note the distance on 
your measure book so you will not forget it; then, when making 
your draft, make the enlargement whatever distance the form 
requires below the waist line, whether it be 4 or 6 inches. By 
so doing, the rules hereafter laid down will give you results 
entirely satisfactory. 

The average hip enlargement is between 5 and 6 inches below 
the waist line. We place the distance on our diagram at 6 
inches, and number each point of enlargement from 1 to 6, — No. 
1 being the front and 6 the back enlargement. We do this in 
order to be able the more clearly to describe the changes required 



by different forms. Experience has taught us that patterns cut 
straight on the goods giv r e the most satisfactory results — hence 
recommend it. 

MEASURES. 

To measure, draw the tape close (not tight) around the larg- 
est part of the hip, then add 3 inches for fullness of drapery ; at 
the same time notice the distance your tape lay below the waist 
line. Say circumference 46, down 6. 

TO DRAFT. 

Rule i. — Whenever the hip shall measure 20 inches more 
than the waist, make Nos. 1 and 4 — 25^ inches each, and Nos. 2 
and 5 — 1 inch each, and No. 3 — 1^ inches; 6 inches, or what- 
ever distance the form requires, below the waist line, and straight 
down on the thread of the goods. No. 6 (the back) is made 31^ 
inches, 10 inches below the waist line. Then reduce each num- 
ber 1^ inch for every 3 inches less than 20 inches difference. 

2d. — Should there be 22 inches difference, make Nos. 1 and 4 
3 inches, without further change; but for every 3 inches increased 
difference thereafter, add ^ inch more to all the numbers. 

3d. — For cloaks and garments with only two pieces in the 
back, make Nos. 1 and 2 — y/ 2 inches each, and No. 3 — 2*^ 
inches, and make the back 41^ inches wide 6 inches below the 
waist line. 

4th. — For children, make Nos. 1 and 4 — y x inch each, and 
Nos. 2, 3 and 5 — y 2 inch each 4 inches below the waist line, and 
No. 6 — 2~]/ 2 inches wide 7 inches below the waist line. Should 
there be only two pieces in the back, make Nos. 1 and 2 — i 1 / 
inches, and No. 3 — y x inch, and No. 4 (the back) 3 inches wide 
*j inches below the waist line. 

5th. — To Baste, place the outlines at bottom of waist exactly 
together, then baste smoothly both ways, running any fullness 



into the armseye and down to bottom, being very careful to pass 
the needle through the tracings on both sides of goods, to pre- 
vent any enlargement or contraction from the lines as originally 
drawn. The needle-pointed tracer is the only one fit to use by 
dressmakers for this purpose, and always see to it that the meas- 
ures are preserved in the garment when basting by testing the 
measures (with the tape measure) as the work progresses. In 
case the goods are soft and liable to stretch, run a strong thread 
around armseye and shoulder-seams before basting, then sustain 
the seams at armseye and shoulder with tape, linen, or other firm 
goods. This is most always necesssary for cloakings and all soft 
woolen fabrics. 

Price of Hip Rule, with full Academic instructions, $5.00 

With full printed instructions, 3.00 



All orders address 



H. AYERS JACKSON, 

202 State Street, Room 5, 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



H. AYERS JACKSON'S 



SCIENTIFICALLY 

GRADUATED WAIST, HIP RULE AND 

SLEEVE 






1* 



% 
METHODS %p 



For Ladies', Gentlemen's and Children's Tailoring, 

Mathematically Demonstrated and 

Practically Illustrated. 



Entere:! according to Act of Congress in the year 1SS4 by H. Avers Jackson. 
All rights reserved. 



H. AYERS JACKSON'S 

Scientifically Grx\duated Hip Rule and Sleeve 
Method, for Ladies', Gentlemen's and Children's 
Tailoring, Mathematically Demonstrated and 
Practically Illustrated. 



FRANCO-PRUSSIAN MODE SLEEVE RULES. 



1st. To measure armseye, carry the tape under the arm and 
over the point of shoulder close. 

2d. Raise the arm level and bend in the shape of a square, 
then measure from side-back seam to point of elbow, thence to 
wrist-bone, then around point of elbow before position is changed ; 
then around the hand for cuff; and around the largest fart of 
upfer arm, and place your measures down, thus: 
Armseye, - - - - - 16 inches. 

Length to point of elbow, 12 inches; whole length, 21 " 
Around elbow, - 11 • " around hand, 8 " 

" muscle, iij^ " " upper arm, 12^ " 

3d. Cuff, Elbow and Armseye. — We now make one inch 
difference between outside and inside pattern at cuff; two inches 
at elbow; and three inches difference at armseye for sleeve mea- 
suring 15 inches and upward at armseye. Then make the differ- 
ence for a 

14-inch Armseye, - - - - 2^ inches. 

13 " " - - - - - 2% u 

12 " " - - - - 2;/ u 

1 1 u a - - - - - 2 u 

IO " "■ - I3/{ " 

4th. For a Coat- Sleeve, make equal patterns at cuff; one 
inch difference at elbow and armseye, as shown in Article 3. 

5th. For Children, make equal patterns at cuff; ^ inch 
difference at elbow and armseye, as shown in Article 3. Make 
the distance // to r — y 2 inch. 

6th. Armseye Rule. — For armseye, take half 'of the armseye 
measure for the width of outside pattern, and 3 inches less for 
the inside pattern, except as shown in Article 3. 



7th. Make the distance between lines b and n^ inches for 
an armseye measuring 16 inches and upward. Reduce the dis- 
tance y% inch for every inch less than 16 inch armseye. 

8th. The distance c to g on line "«" is 3 inches for a 17-inch 
armseye. Enlarge y% inch for every inch more than 17-inch 
armseye, and diminish y inch for every inch less than 17. 

9th. The distance c to_/" is 1^ inches for a 16-inch armseye; 
then enlarge or diminish y% inch for every inch variation from 16. 

10th. To draft by the above measures, or whatever the meas- 
ures may be, they are to be used in the same manner as herein- 
after stated : 

1st. Draw line a 2 inches up and parallel with bottom edge 
of paper, and line a a the width of rule below line a\ draw line 
b close to left hand edge of paper; draw line c iy% inches in and 
parallel with line b. 

2d. Find y 2 of armseye measure on the tape (8 inches); 
place the 8-inch mark on line a at c\ then without moving it, 
mark the end at d, 3 inches less at £, and \*/ 2 inches in from line 
a at y, for width of outside pattern at shoulder. 

3d. Place the end of tape at c\ then mark on line a as fol- 
lows: 2?y inches at g for top of inside pattern, 12 inches at h 
for elbow line, then 7 inches more at i for curve guide at cuff; 
then measure 12 inches from d to m\ draw elbow line m to //, 
and line i to j at cuff; measure up from h one inch (or a little less), 
and mark at k. 

4th. Place the notch at bottom of dart form of mode at g, 
carry to k, and draw ^"to k. Place the front-neck point of mode 
on elbow line at k, and draw curve to j. Place the end of the 
tape toward you, and find the figures indicating the elbow meas- 
ure (11); then fold the end of tape back to 9, (if for a coat sleeve, 
fold to 10,) then place the double end or fold of tape at k and 
mark figures 9 and 1 1 at / and m (or 10 and 11 if for coat sleeve), 
for width of outside and inside patterns at elbow; draw lines d to 
?n and e to /. 

5th. Place the end of tape at d, measure 12 inches to m, and 
whole length of sleeve 21 inches to n at cuff; then hold the 
tape firmly at o and with pencil sweep n to.?. Find cuff measure 
(8) on tape (end toward you), then double the end back to 7; (if 
for coat-sleeve, double to 8 for equal patterns.) Place the double 
end at s and mark 7 and 8 at j) and n\ place the front-neck point 
of mode on elbow line at m, and draw to n\ place at /, and draw 
to p. 



6th. To draft armseye, measure with tape e to c ( 5 inches); 
use this length, less y 2 inch on pencil, to sweep e to g from point 
q\ measure f to d (6y inches); add 1 inch, making 7^ inches; 
double the tape and use one half (3^ inches less y inch) on the 
pencil to sweep f x to d from point r\ draw f to g with straight 
rule. 

7th. To prove the muscle and upper arm measures, place 
the end of tape at /, measure to 10 (4^ inches). Place this at u, 
hold and measure again to 10; this shows 1 1 J^ inches — y inch 
too much, so reduce y% inch at t and it. Place the end of tape at 
77, measure to g; this shows 5 inches. Place the 5 at ^ and 
measure again at^*; this shows 13 inches, being y inch too much, 
so reduce y inch at v and w. Now place the notch of dart form 
( mode face down ) at 11, and draw to 1 ; place at 12 and draw to 
o\ draw straight line for cufF;^ to s and your sleeve is complete. 

Remarks : Treat all measures in the same manner. The 
coat sleeve is shown by traced lines on the draft d to 2, thence to 
4 at cuff, and e to 3, thence to 4. Should it be desirable to change 
the top of inside pattern so as to drop the back seam lower under 
the arm, it can be done by drawing a line as shown from 7 to g, 
and then measure v to g and mark that distance w to 7, taking 
care to have the distance 13 to 7 the same as c to g\ then measure 
e to c for length of tape to sweep 7 to d\ then measure the 
desired amount from the inside pattern, say 1 y, inches ( more or 
less) as shown 12 to 6, and same distance (*y inches) 11 to 5, 
taking care to have the distance from line c to 6 and 5 just alike; 
then draw 5 to ?n and 6 to /. In this manner you can make the 
inside pattern at top, or cuff, any desired width, always adding 
to the outside pattern whatever has been taken from the inside 
pattern, as shown m to 8 and / to 9. Lines 7 to m and g to / form 
the entire sleeve, with one seam only at g. 

Note. This sleeve is secured by copyright, and also under 
my patent " method " for cutting clothing, and all infringements 
will be rigidly prosecuted. 

Price of Sleeve Rule, with full Academic Instructions, $5.00 

With full Printed Instructions, ... 3.00 

Address all orders to 

H. AYERS JACKSON, 

202 State Street, Room 5, 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



wmm 






Note— Enlarge or diminish the sp.i 
inch variation from 11 „■„ h taper,..-, tho 
and children redu, c tin- dart, to I- ,«,■ 
llsodone uhr-n the uaisi ,s vei, Iu.t 
wne-the symmetry of ll„. fuller,, nf.oy, 



i M, L, K and D. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





013 973 008 2 




